In the vibrant Chouara Tannery of Fez, 52-year-old Rachid Qamari stands as a devoted practitioner of the tanning craft. Since the age of 16, Rachid has dedicated his life to this ancient art. Chouara, once called “Dar Dhab” or “The House of Gold,” was renowned for its luxurious leather products. Today, Rachid continues this tradition, transforming raw hides into high-quality leather through a meticulous tanning process. His work embodies not just a trade, but a lifelong obsession with craftsmanship.

The Art of Tanning Craft: Preserving Traditional Techniques

The tanning craft in Fez exemplifies a delicate balance of artistry and tradition. Rachid emphasizes the importance of “tannin,” a substance derived from tree bark essential for the tanning process. “It’s nature’s gift,” he asserts, pointing out that although this vital ingredient often comes from Brazil, the journey begins locally. The hides sourced from Fez’s “Ain Naqbi” market are pivotal, providing the foundation for the region’s leather industry. Cow, sheep, goat, and camel hides enter this vibrant process, each one telling its own story.

Rachid insists that the tanning craft relies on a variety of natural materials. Quicklime, wheat bran, and salt play crucial roles alongside tannin in creating quality artisan leather. He notes, “We stay away from chemicals; our process remains pure.” This commitment to traditional methods not only preserves the integrity of the leather but also connects artisans to their heritage, ensuring the craft remains vibrant.

The commitment to traditional techniques has created a unique identity for the Chouara Tannery. Visitors often marvel at the sight of large stone vats, each filled with different dyes and materials. The vivid colors and the unmistakable scent of leather evoke a sense of history. Rachid believes that this dedication keeps the spirit of Moroccan artisanship alive, providing a narrative that binds generations together through their shared commitment to craft.

Tanning: From Raw Hides to Artisanal Leather

The tanning craft at Chouara Tannery involves a detailed process that spans up to a month. Rachid describes the first stage: soaking hides in water-filled stone vessels. “This step is crucial,” he says, “taking 48 hours in winter or just two hours in summer.” This initial soaking prepares the hides for natural dyeing, setting the stage for the artistry that follows. The dyeing process, using indigo, henna, and poppy, yields vibrant hues of blue, orange, and red that are emblematic of Moroccan culture.

In the next phase, hides undergo immersion in a mixture of water and quicklime for 15 to 30 days. “Lime strengthens the hides, making them thicker and denser,” Rachid explains. This part of the process emphasizes patience and precision. After this, the hides are meticulously cleaned to remove lime residue, ensuring the quality remains uncompromised.

The subsequent soaking in a blend of water and pigeon feces serves a dual purpose: it softens the leather and aids in dye absorption. “This method may sound unusual, but it’s effective,” Rachid notes, emphasizing the natural origins of their techniques. The hides are treated with wheat bran overnight and then left to dry under the Moroccan sun. Finally, they emerge ready for artisans to transform them into exquisite leather goods, each piece reflecting Rachid’s unwavering dedication to the tanning craft.

The Hardships of the Tanning Craft: Struggles for Fair Wages

Despite its artistry, the tanning craft is demanding. Rachid reveals he works over nine hours a day for minimal pay, ranging between seven and ten dollars daily. “The market dynamics are challenging,” he laments. Bazaar owners often reap most of the profits from artisan leather goods, leaving tanners like Rachid with a modest income. This imbalance highlights the urgent need for reforms in how artisans are compensated.

The harsh realities of this profession weigh heavily on Rachid’s shoulders. “Without adequate support, it’s hard for tanners to live with dignity,” he emphasizes. Many artisans struggle to provide for their families on such meager earnings, leading to a sense of disillusionment within the craft community. This discontent threatens the very fabric of the tanning craft, casting a shadow over its future.

Rachid calls for greater recognition of the tanning craft and its practitioners. “We need infrastructure and support,” he insists. The dwindling number of artisans willing to enter the field reflects a broader concern for the sustainability of this cultural heritage. Rachid’s passion for his work is palpable, but he recognizes that change is necessary for the future of the craft he loves.

The Future of Tanning: Preserving a Cultural Heritage

Rachid expresses deep concern about the future of the tanning craft. The demanding nature and unpleasant aspects of tanning discourage younger generations from pursuing it. “Tanning requires patience and effort, which many find unappealing,” he observes. The intricate processes that define the craft can feel daunting to newcomers, leading to a decline in those willing to carry the torch.

Nevertheless, Rachid remains hopeful for the tanning craft’s revival. He dreams of a future where the industry offers financial stability and recognizes the value of its practitioners. “We hope for a recovery in the tanning craft,” he states, his eyes glistening with determination. He envisions a world where artisans are celebrated, not just for their products but for their contributions to cultural identity.

His optimism shines through despite the challenges. Rachid believes that education and awareness can rekindle interest in the tanning craft among younger generations. By promoting the artistry and heritage of this tradition, he hopes to inspire a new wave of artisans eager to embrace the tanning craft. Rachid’s unwavering passion serves as a beacon of hope, illuminating the path for those who will follow in his footsteps.

Tanning Craft: A Legacy of Resilience and Craftsmanship

Rachid Qamari’s dedication highlights the resilience of Morocco’s artisans. His journey through the tanning craft embodies a deep connection to cultural heritage, bridging the past with the present. The challenges he faces reflect broader issues within the artisan community, yet his unwavering passion serves as a testament to the importance of this craft.

Supporting artisans like Rachid ensures that the tanning craft — and the passion driving it — endures for future generations. As he stands amidst the colorful vats of dye and the rhythmic sounds of the tannery, Rachid embodies the spirit of Moroccan craftsmanship. His story resonates not only with those who appreciate the artistry of leather but also with anyone who values the rich tapestry of cultural heritage that defines Morocco.